Top eight highlights of a road trip in Nevada
Nevada, USA, is more than just gambling and cacti, editor Kevin Smith takes a road trip across the state to find the best spots for nature lovers
When I had the chance to visit Nevada, I wasn’t sure what I’d find to satisfy the appetite of a garden and nature lover. Surely this state is all about harsh desert and the bright lights of Las Vegas. Well, yes and no. My trip started in Vegas, where I did indeed find bright lights and desert, but a four-day road trip north took me to breathtaking state parks with landscapes and scenery I never could have imagined. There are cultivated gardens on the outskirts of Las Vegas city too, which came as a complete surprise. So, think again if you think Nevada is all about gambling and cacti – you will find these things, but it offers so much more if you jump in a car and drive.
Ethel M Botanical Cactus Garden
I expected to see a lot of cacti in Nevada, so it was no surprise to find a whole garden dedicated to them. Just a 15-minute drive from the bright lights of the Las Vegas strip, the Ethel M Botanical Cactus Garden is free to enter and beautifully maintained. I spotted many plants, not just cacti, that were familiar to me plus others I’d never seen before that were obviously suited to the harsh weather Nevada has to offer. Everything’s meticulously labelled and, best of all, the garden belongs to an adjacent chocolate factory and shop – something for everyone!
Valley of Fire State Park
The otherworldly rock formations of the Valley of Fire State Park are a couple of hours north of Las Vegas, but it’s worth the drive. There’s very little plant life here, but the park is a must for anyone that loves the natural world and breathtaking scenery. Everything about this place is extreme, from the vibrant red colour of the rock to the intense heat once outside the comfort of an air-conditioned car – it was 43+ degrees. I visited in late September, and it was so hot that my phone stopped working outside. But there was something thrilling about being in such an exposed and, I guess, potentially dangerous place.
Cathedral Gorge State Park
Further north took me to Cathedral Gorge State Park. The temperature was about 10 degrees cooler here and nothing prepared me for the beauty of this place. It reminded me a little of the Grand Canyon, but it obviously wasn’t quite as big and nowhere near as busy. In fact, when I visited, I was the only person there and I’ll never forget the solace and silence I experienced here. There were far more signs of life too, with plants clinging to the rock and the odd tree surviving against the odds – a reminder of how resilient plants can be and a good reminder for us gardeners that they want to grow.
Kershaw Ryan State Park
The Kershaw Ryan State Park is a short drive from Cathedral Gorge and the perfect place to take a breather from the heat of Nevada. It’s more maintained than other parks I’d visited, with a blue pool for paddling and cooling hot feet, places to kick back and relax, spots to barbecue and picnic and areas of cultivated garden. It’s a great place to spend the day with family. Hiking trails take you into the surrounding landscape and I walked one of the shorter ones that gently climbed and gave me spectacular views of Nevada stretching into a never-ending horizon.
Great Basin National Park
Further north still took me to the Great Basin National Park. The temperature dipped a little here, and the landscape became much greener with bristlecone pine trees covering the mountains. At times the scenery reminded me of Scotland, which wasn’t something I expected from Nevada at all. It was autumn when I visited, and aspen trees were full of colour lighting up the landscape like fire – a totally unexpected spectacle that I’ll never forget. The area is known for its stargazing and, once I’d checked into my digs for the night, I sat outside and looked up as night fell. I’ve never seen so many shooting stars with the Milky Way also cutting the night sky in two – just magical.
Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park
I made a quick pit stop to the Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park, but it’s worth it if you like a bit of history. The charcoal ovens were built and used in the 1870s as part of the silver ore mining industry and it’s incredible they’re in such great condition today. You can walk right up to them, and go inside each one, which better helps you appreciate the scale and craft involved. The landscape the ovens sit in is beautiful and you have to drive a dirt track to reach them, which adds to the feeling of adventure and discovery.
Success Loop Scenic Drive
Still in the Great Basin National Park, I took the 40-mile Success Loop Scenic Drive. It’s not for the faint hearted with the dirt road climbing and winding through the mountains, but it is worth dedicating a couple of hours to the trip if you’re a confident driver. The landscape is beautiful and there were masses of aspen trees in full autumn colour which made everything even more beautiful. There was plenty of wildlife to see too and, if you’re feeling super adventurous, remote camping spots to fully immerse yourself in the high-desert landscape.
Springs Preserve
Before heading back to Las Vegas airport I called in at Springs Preserve on the outskirts of the city. This 180-acre attraction celebrates the history, culture and community of Las Vegas, with a focus on preserving the environment and natural resources. There’s a vast botanical garden which is free to enter and well worth a visit, with cacti, roses, herbs and veg gardens and more all on offer. It’s a great educational resource and it was fab to see plenty of places for children to learn and interact with the natural world.
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