How to grow trees in a pot

The ideal types of tree to grow in pots are slow-growing or dwarf varieties. Fruit trees are often sold grafted on to a rootstock that controls how big they eventually grow. For growing in containers, look for varieties described as ‘dwarfing’ – a ‘vigorous’ tree will grow too quickly to be happy in a pot, while an ‘extremely dwarfing’ tree will be too weak to cope in the confines of a pot.

You could also look for a multi-stemmed tree. Rather than a standard lollipop tree shape, these have several trunks growing from near the base, which reduces the overall height the tree will grow to.

After four or five years, most trees will need to be re-potted, either into a slightly larger pot or you can snip off some of the outer roots and replant into the same pot with fresh compost.

Find out how to plant a tree in a pot, below.

You Will Need

• Large, heavy and frost-proof pot
• Equal mix of multi-purpose compost and John Innes No.3
• Bucket
• Mycorrhizal fungi granules
• Gravel or pebbles
• Slow-release granular fertiliser

Step 1

Choose a frost-proof pot that is large and heavy, for stability. Part-fill with an equal mix of multi-purpose compost and John Innes No.3. Lightly firm the compost into the base of the pot.

Step 2

Dunk the tree into a bucket of water to ensure the rootball is thoroughly soaked all the way through. Then take it out of the bucket, let it drain and remove the tree from its pot.

Step 3

Tease apart some of the roots around the edges and base of the rootball with your fingers. Sprinkle mycorrhizal fungi granules over the damp roots, so that they stick to the surface.

Step 4

Put the tree into the pot, so the top of the rootball is 2-3cm below the rim. Make sure it's in contact with the compost underneath. Fill in around the sides with the compost mix, firming in well.

Step 5

Cover the surface with a mulch of gravel or cobbles to help retain moisture in the compost and prevent weeds germinating.

Step 6

Water well using an entire can – go slowly so it can soak into the compost. Repeat weekly from March to October, increasing to at least twice a week in very hot, dry weather.

Step 7

Cut out any dead twigs with sharp secateurs. In spring or summer, thin out any stems that are growing close together. Most trees in pots benefit from soft growth being pruned by 10cm in July.

Step 8

Feed with slow-release fertiliser granules once a year as it comes into growth in spring. Remove the mulch and sprinkle half a handful on top of the compost. Reapply the mulch. Water in well.

• Apple (Malus domestica) – Spring blossom, followed by fruit in the autumn. M26 (dwarfing) rootstock is ideal
• Apricot (Prunus ‘Aprigold’) – This small, slow-growing apricot is covered in blossom in spring and produces lots of fruits in summer
• Chinese red bud (Cercis chinensis ‘Avondale’) – This compact variety has masses of pink flowers in spring, before the heart-shaped leaves emerge
• Flowering dogwood (Cornus florida f. rubra) – Slow-growing with long-lasting, pink bracts in spring and purple autumn leaves. The conical shape adds architectural interest
• Italian cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) – Although this evergreen grows very tall, it can be clipped to keep it in check. Create a formal look with a matching pair
• Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) – Slow-growing with a huge variety of colours. Keep in a sheltered position, out of strong winds and midday sun
• Juneberry (Amelanchier lamarckii) – This delicate, small tree boasts spring blossom and vibrant autumn colour. It is often grown multi-stemmed
• Olive (Olea europaea) – Ideal for sheltered urban plots, it should be moved into a greenhouse or porch when the weather gets very cold
• Persian silk tree (Albizia julibrissin) – Finely divided, mimosa-like leaves and flowers that resemble pink shaving-brushes give this hardy, shrubby tree an exotic look. Copes well with full sun and heat
• Starry magnolia (Magnolia stellata) – Most magnolias grow too large for pot, but this is a compact, multi-stemmed type, with star-like flowers