How to grow and care for a ponytail palm

How to care for a ponytail palm

The ponytail palm is naturally a desert-dweller, so is tolerant of drought and sunlight. This makes it one of the easiest house plants to grow, as you won't need to water it very often.

Watering

Your watering regime will make or break a ponytail palm. Hydrate the soil too often and it will develop root rot within weeks. We recommend watering every four to six weeks, all year round, with the compost allowed to completely dry out between waterings. This means that for the majority of the time, your plant will be sitting in dry compost, which is ideal.

Light and location

Sunlight is critical for success with ponytail palm. With this in mind, position your ponytail palm on a sunny windowsill or in a conservatory. Never place it more than 50cm from a window as it will show signs of light stress (elongated leggy growth and stem collapse).

Soil and fertilisers

Choose a peat-free 'cactus and succulent' compost. Avoid using a generic house plant compost as this is designed more for tropical, moisture-loving house plants.

Feed your ponytail palm with a house plant or cactus and succulent liquid feed, only every three months.

Temperature and humidity

Being a desert plant, ponytail palm is used to temperature extremes. It can withstand temperatures down to 8ºC and up to 35ºC. Average house humidity is also well suited to ponytail palm, however if the leaf tips start turning brown you may want to mist it to increase humidity.

Pruning

The only pruning that's needed for a ponytail palm is snipping off any yellowed/browned leaf tips off to maintain a good appearance. Never cut the plant back to the base by removing the leaves and stems, as this may kill it.

Staking

Staking isn't necessary for the ponytail palm. If it feels wobbly in the soil, this is most likely root rot, so act quickly to rectify this.

How to repot a ponytail palm

Ponytail palms need repotting only once every five years, as being in the same pot for several seasons mimics their natural rocky habitat, where roots may be constricted.

1. Water the compost around twelve hours before you repot it to reduce the risk of transplant shock.
2. Choose a pot that’s only a few centimetres wider than the original, and part fill it with 4cm of fresh, peat-free 'cactus and succulent’ compost.
4. Place the ponytail palm's rootball on top of the compost, making sure it's sitting at the correct depth, before filling the gaps around it with further compost. Tap the side of the pot several times with your fingers to remove any air pockets. Never push the potting mix down to compact it as this can affect aeration and drainage.
5. Water thoroughly and allow the water to drain fully before positioning your palm in its original position. Once the repotting is complete, wait two weeks before watering again.

How to propagate a ponytail palm

The most successful way to propagate a ponytail palm is to take stem cuttings, but, as ponytail palm is so slow-growing, it will take several years for the cutting to grow to a sizeable plant. This is best done when repotting your palm or if it has root rot and you need to take drastic action to save it.

1. Choose a stem that is at least 20cm in height and prune it away from the main root using a clean pair of secateurs.
2. Apply rooting hormone gel to the wound's surface area if you want to. This isn't strictly necessary but may improve chances of a successful cutting.
3. Part fill a 12cm pot with peat-free, cactus and succulent compost. With your finger, push a hole three-quarters deep into the potting mix, around halfway between the centre and the edge of the pot – cuttings planted towards the edge tend to generate a better root system than cuttings placed in the centre. Place the cutting into the hole and cover any gaps with the surrounding soil.
4. Water the soil with lukewarm water. Keep the potted cutting in a warm room (ideally above 20ºC) with bright, indirect light. Avoid placing it in direct sun as this may increase the likelihood of dehydration, resulting in a stressed cutting that won't root sufficiently.
5. When new fresh new leaves begin to develop at the tip, this means the plantlet has successfully rooted. You can now treat it as an adult ponytail palm – keep it in the same pot for two years, watering the soil only once every six weeks.

Common issues

Yellowing older leaves is natural and nothing to worry about. If, however, the stem feels soft and the plant feels loose in the soil, this could be root rot, which will need addressing immediately.

A lack of new growth can be down to the location not being warm or sunny enough, but equally could just be a case of the plant's usual slow growing nature.

Brown or yellow leaf tips can be a sign of root rot, but if the plant feels secure in the soil, try not to worry. Ponytail palms will never look perfect as they age, so accept the imperfections or prune the brown/yellow tips off to improve appearance.

Leggy, lop-sided growth is most likely due to low light. Ensure your ponytail palm receives a good amount of sunlight per day, either on a windowsill or in a conservatory.

Root rot causes rapidly yellowing leaves and a stem that's loose in the soil (meaning it's wobbly when touched). Take the plant out of its pot and look for signs of rot, such as dark, flat roots that can be pulled away easily. If you do find dead roots, remove them and the surrounding compost, while keeping healthy roots with compost intact. If more than 50 per cent of the roots have rotted, repot the plant into a smaller pot that will keep the rootball tight. For those with less than half of the roots being rotten, repot back into the same pot and fill the remaining gaps with fresh cactus and succulent compost.

Pests and diseases

Common pests include red spider mites, scale insects and mealybugs. The first two of these thrive in dry environments, so mist the leaves regularly with a plant mister or stand the pot on a tray of moist pebbles to increase humidity.

Mealybugs can be picked off by hand. Large infestations can be treated with insecticidal soap.

Toxicity

The ponytail palm is not classified poisonous to humans or pets, but its sharp edges may cut through the skin when handled.

Varieties to grow

Beaucarnea recurvata – the most common ponytail palm you can find in a garden centre or shop. Height x Spread: 2m x 1m
Beaucarnea recurvata f. variegata' – slightly harder to find in physical stores, but offers bright striped foliage to brighten any window. H x S: 1.8m x 90cm

Frequently asked questions

Where should I put my ponytail palm in my house?

Place your ponytail palm in the sunniest position possible, such as on a sunny windowsill or in a conservatory.

What are the disadvantages of ponytail palms?

Two disadvantages of owning a ponytail palm are that it will grow very slowly and the leaves are sharp and could cut through skin when handled.

How long do ponytail palms last?

Ponytail palms live for at least 20 years in the right care, but most likely longer if the plant is kept on a warm, sunny windowsill.

What does an overwatered ponytail palm look like?

The soil will feel moist all the time and will smell 'earthy'. The stem will be loose in the potting mix, meaning it will feel wobbly when handled. The leaves may also turn yellow or brown after a few weeks.

Should I cut the brown tips off of my ponytail palms?

Pruning the browned leaf tips will improve the appearance of your ponytail palm, but make sure it's done with a clean pair of scissors.

How do you make a ponytail palm happy?

Keep your ponytail palm in a sunny. location and water only every four to six weeks.

What happens to a ponytail palm after it blooms?

The chances of your palm flowering indoors is extremely unlikely, but for those that do bloom, nothing bad will happen afterwards. The plant will continue to grow normally once the final flower elapses.

Are ponytail palms easy to keep alive?

Absolutely. Ensure the soil dries out for at least four weeks before watering again and provide it with as sunny a location as possible.