How to grow a rubber plant

Always use lukewarm water to avoid shocking the roots, as cold soil conditions can result in slowed growth and a decline of overall plant health.

Light and location

Rubber plants do best in brightest spot in our homes, ideally within 1.5m of a window, or in a conservatory as long as temperatures remain above 12℃. Never locate the plant more than 1.5m from a light source, as low light levels can result in leaf drop.

Compost and fertilisers

Soil: use a peat-free, house plant compost or a more expensive (but generally better) 'ficus' compost.

Fertiliser: use a house plant fertiliser every third water, all year round. If your rubber plant hasn't grown in a while, try using a foliar feed as well, alongside your usual feeding regime.

Temperature and humidity

Although rubber plants can grow in cooler rooms, this will come at the expense of growth rates and overall appearance. Ideally, grow your rubber plant in the warmest room of the house, with a consistent temperature above 15℃. General room humidity levels are fine for rubber plant, but you can increase humidity by misting the leaves or placing the pot on a tray of pebbles with water, so the water sits just below the pebbles and evaporates to create humidity around the plant.

Pruning

Rubber plant will grow relatively slowly compared to other house plants, so pruning isn't needed often. When the plant is a little over the desired height, you can prune the stem back to reduce its size. Remember to wear gloves as the sap can be irritable to the eyes and skin. Any prunings can also be rooted to make more rubber plants – see 'how to propagate a rubber plant' below.

Staking

Rubber plants don't need staking unless they're kept in a dark area where they have developed sideways growth. If this happens, use a standard length of bamboo and use twine to attach the stem to it, to keep it upright.

Additional care

Wipe dust off the leaves as and when you need to. This will not only improve the overall appearance of your rubber plant but will also help the plant photosynthesise (convert the sun's energy into food), which will help to keep your rubber plant healthy. Regularly wiping the leaves also means you are up close with your rubber plant and can identify any problems or pests and deal with them quickly.

How to repot a rubber plant

Infrequent repotting is best for rubber plant as root disturbance could leave to transplant shock (leaf loss, wilting). Repot your plant every three years (in spring or summer) into the next sized pot (avoid using terracotta pots as they can become cold when the soil is wet, which slow down growing rates).

1. Water the plant around 24 hours before repotting, to reduce the risk of transplant shock.
2. After this period, gently take the plant out of the pot and scan the outside of its root system for root rot. Generally speaking, a healthy root will be dark but plump to the touch, whereas any that feel mushy or can easily be pulled off from the soil/plant are most likely rotting.
3. Use a pot that's only a few centimetres wider than its current one and ensure it has drainage holes.
4. Pour 4cm of peat-free, house plant or 'ficus' compost into the new empty pot and rest the rubber plant on top, until you're happy with its position.
5. Fill the remaining gaps between the roots and the inner side of the pot with the remaining soil. Tap the pot's side in various spots to consolidate the soil and remove air pockets.
6. Give the plant another water to settle the roots into the compost. Then place it back in its usual to reduce the risk of shock.

How to propagate a rubber plant

Propagating rubber plants can be difficult, but this needn't stop you from having a go.

The best time to take a cutting is in spring or early summer, when the plant is actively growing.

1. Use sharp secateurs to cut stem around 20cm in length. Wear gloves as the plant produces a protective white sap that can irritate sensitive skin.
2. Put the cutting in a container of warm water with the cut end submerged, ensuring no leaves are touching the water (to prevent rot). You may have to prune the lowest leaf (closest to the wound) to avoid submersion. The water will cool down so don't worry about keeping it warm – it just needs to be warm at the start to avoid shocking the cutting.
3. Replace the water every three days to maintain good hygiene. Keep the cutting in the warmest room of the house, preferably on a windowsill.
4. Roots should appear from the cut within a week. Once the first root grows longer than 7cm, plant it up in a 10cm pot with either a house plant or 'ficus' compost.

Common issues (how to diagnose problems)

Leaf drop is the most common problem with rubber plants. It's usually to do with either not enough light or low temperatures. Ensure both are addressed to help ease the symptoms. Remember, these plants can deal with sunlight, so try placing it close to an east- or west-facing window to revive.

Yellowing older leaves are nothing to worry about if they occur occasionally (at a rate of one per month, or slower). If the plant is rapidly losing leaves, check the root system for rot. If the roots are fine, repot into the next sized pot and make sure you're feeding the plant regularly (fertilise with a liquid fertiliser every third watering).

Yellow mottled leaves may be caused by red spider mite. Check the leaf's underside, along the edges and creases, for small webs that trap dirt. If you find any, wipe the stem and leaves with a cloth of warm soapy water. Red spider mite thrives in a dry environment, so increase humidity

Brown crispy edges are most common on variegated rubber plants. This is where the leaf is thinnest, which will be more susceptible to low humidity and heat damage from radiators.

Curling leaves could indicate either too much or too little water. You'll be able to tell the difference from the compost. Wet, clumpy compost with an earth smell suggests over-watering, while crumbly, dry soil suggests under-watering.

Toxicity

Unfortunately, this plant is classified poisonous when ingested by humans and pets. Damaged wounds will also leak a white sticky sap that can irritate the eyes and skin.

Varieties to grow

Ficus elastica 'Tineke' – popular with those wanting a large variegated plant to instantly brighten-up a home. Height x Spread: 2.5m x 2m
Ficus elastica 'Abidjan' – darker toned rubber plant with red sheathes at the tip of its stem. H x S: 2.5m x 2m
Ficus elastica 'Belize' – similar to the variegations found on a Ficus 'Tineke' but with a rose-tint to the foliage and stem. H x S: 2m x 1.5m

Frequently asked questions

Does rubber plant need sun?

Yes. Although rubber plants survive in darker areas of the home, they do best in sunlight. This could be either within 1.5m of a window or in a conservatory, as long as temperatures remain above 12ºC.

Where is the best place to put a rubber plant in the house?

The warmer the room, the better the growth rates will be. Sunny rooms like conservatories and near south–facing windows are best for rubber plants.

Is rubber plant good or bad for the house?

Rubber plants are an excellent choice for houses that are warm and bright, especially in conservatories and south–facing rooms. Bear in mind, though, that rubber plants are toxic, so may not be the best option among curious children and pets.

Why is my rubber plant dropping lots of leaves?

The most common reason for leaf drop is low light. See 'common issues' for more information.

Why is my rubber plant turning yellow?

This could be an issue of pests (like spider mites), a poor watering regime, minimal fertilisation, or low temperatures. See 'common issues' for more information.