This article has been checked for horticultural accuracy by Oliver Parsons.

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Known by several common names, including false castor oil plant, Japanese aralia or paper plant, Fatsia japonica is a fantastic foliage plant, native to Japan. A medium-sized shrub, Fatsia japonica bears glossy evergreen leaves and spherical, ivy-like flowers, followed by black berries. It's a great choice for a shady spot in the garden, and it can also be grown as a house plant.

False castor oil plant is guaranteed to add an exotic touch to the garden, especially in winter. It looks good teamed with softer grasses and bamboos, but also works in contrast with smaller-leaved shrubs, or bold plants such as canna lilies.

How to grow Fatsia japonica

Fatsia japonica is versatile and can be grown in a variety of locations, from shady garden spots to warm patios, but you may find that young foliage gets burned if exposed to too much strong sunlight. It also works well as a house plant, preferring a cool, well-ventilated room with no central heating (a conservatory is ideal). Plant in spring into moist but free-draining, fertile soil, with added well-rotted compost or manure. Keep well watered initially while the plant settles in, and then water in dry conditions only. Propagate from semi-ripe cuttings in late summer.

More on growing Fatsia japonica:


Where to grow Fatsia japonica

How to grow Fatsia japonica - where to grow Fatsia japonica
Fatsia japonica as a house plant

Fatsia japonica is versatile and can be grown in a variety of locations. It's a good choice for a tricky shady spot, but can also be grown on a sunnier patio or urban courtyard. Relatively salt- and wind-tolerant, Fatsia japonica is also suitable for less exposed coastal gardens.

As a house plant, Fatsia japonica is best grown in a cool, airy room. For best results, ensure the room remains cool in winter and is not centrally heated – if necessary, move it for winter. An unheated conservatory makes the perfect setting for an indoor fatsia.

Bear in mind that Fatsia japonica is quite fairly fast-growing in favourable conditions, so may need repotting every few years.


How to plant Fatsia japonica

Plant the false castor oil plant outdoors in spring so it can establish over the warmer months. Dig a generous hole, adding a couple of handfuls of well-rotted compost or manure and a sprinkling of mycorrhizal funghi to help the plant settle in.

Plant at the same depth it was in the pot, replace the soil around the rootball and firm in gently. Water well and continue to water for the next couple of weeks, after which you should only need to water in dry periods. If the plant is in a sunnier spot, initial watering will need to continue for longer.


How to grow and care for Fatsia japonica

How to grow Fatsia japonica - where to care for Fatsia japonica
Removing the dying leaves of Fatsia japonica

Fatsias need little care over the growing year. Remove dead and dying leaves as and when you need to, and prune lightly in mid- to late-spring to maintain a pleasing shape. You will find that older leaf stems can often be snapped off where they meet the main stem, which usually looks better than cutting.

Apply a thick mulch around the base of the plant in autumn, which should protect the roots from cold conditions. Severe frost can damage fatsia leaves, so when prolonged bouts of nighttime temperatures below -°3C are forecast, cover the plant with protective fleece or bring it into a sheltered area.


How to propagate Fatsia japonica

Propagate the false castor oil plant by taking semi-ripe cuttings in late summer.


Pests and diseases

Fatsias are generally pretty tough, but indoor-grown plants and those grown in warmer spots can be susceptible to scale insects, thrips and mealybugs. Also, keep a look out for leaf spot and remove affected leaves.

Yellowing fatsia leaves are usually a sign that the plant needs more nutrients, but bear in mind that even perfectly healthy specimens will shed leaves from time to time, and yellowing is the first stage of this process. Emma Crawforth, horticultural editor at BBC Gardeners' World Magazine, explains how to deal with yellowing fatsia leaves, in our Quick Tips video, below.


Advice on buying fatsias

  • Whether you're buying a fatsia as a house plant or garden shrub, make sure you have the right growing conditions before you buy
  • Buy only the healthiest plants – check the plant over for signs of pests and damage before planting

Where to buy fatsias online

Fatsia japonicas to grow

Fatsia japonica 'Spider's Web'
Fatsia japonica 'Spider's Web'
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  • Fatsia japonica 'Variegata' – a slightly less hardy and less common variegated form, with leaves edged in cream. Usually sold as an indoor plant
  • x Fatshedera lizei – although not really a Fatsia japonica, this intergeneric hybrid of fatsia with ivy (hedera) offers a similar foliage effect, but with a climbing growth habit
  • Fatsia japonica 'Spider's Web' – slightly slower growing than the species, 'Spider's Web' has variegated, speckled leaves giving them a webbed appearance.

Frequently asked questions

Can I propagate Fatsia japonica from cuttings? 

Fatsia japonica can be propagated from cuttings taken in late summer. Take semi-ripe cuttings (youngish stems that are starting to thicken at the base), about 20cm long. Remove the bottom few leaf stems, dip the cutting in rooting hormone powder and push it into a pot of moist, peat-free, free-draining cuttings compost. Cover and keep at a constant temperature of 15-20ºC.

It may be easier to sow Fatsia japonica seed, however. Use peat-free seed compost and cover the seeds with vermiculite rather than compost, as this allows some light to reach them. Keep in a heated propagator at 15-20ºC, with plenty of light. Pot seedlings into individual pots and plant out into the garden when they are around three years old.  

My Fatsia japonica leaves are drooping – what can I do?

Fatsia japonica plants can sag or develop droopy leaves, which usually means something is wrong. Typically, this indicates over- or under-watering. Push your finger into the compost or soil, which should feel moist but not wet. If it's wet, then the fatsia is drowning – if it's growing in a pot, ensure the pot isn't sitting in water and then stop watering until the compost feels dry. If the plant is growing outside in the soil, you may need to improve drainage as other plants will be suffering too. If it's dry, then water your fatsia. This should instantly perk it up. Follow up by applying a thick mulch, which will help the soil around the plant to retain moisture.

Can I move an established fatsia?

It is possible to move established fatsias, although the larger the plant, the less well it will transplant. Wait until mid-spring to do this, and prepare the new planting hole beforehand so you can plant your fatsia in its new home straight away. Water your fatsia thoroughly the day before digging it up and then dig as much of the rootball out of the ground as possible. Pruning the plant back will also help by reducing evaporation from the leaf surface until the roots have re-established themselves in the new spot. Water regularly until the plant is starting to show strong growth, usually after a few weeks.

Why are my Fatsia japonica brown and curling?

For fatsias growing as house plants, dry air and too much sunlight can be a problem. Dry air saps moisture from the leaves and can leave them feeling crinkly to touch. Too much light can lead to burning of the leaves, which in turn leads to brown patches and leaf curling. First, remove the damaged leaves at the base of their leaf stalks. Then, if you can, move your fatsia to a shadier spot, ideally in a humid room such as a bathroom. You can increase humidity in a drier room by misting daily or placing your fatsia on a tray of pebbles, adding water to the tray so it sits just beneath the pebbles. This will encourage water to evaporate into the air around the plant, increasing humidity.

When can I prune my false castor oil plant? 

Prune in mid-spring. You can remove complete stems right back to the main one and take off any dead or yellow leaves at the base of the leaf stem. This will help reduce its height and width. Keep checking it as you go along so you achieve the desired shape.

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